When it comes to independent travel in Japan, Hokkaido has always held a special place: it isn't as lively and bustling as Tokyo, nor as steeped in history as Kansai, yet it has a relaxing rhythm that's perfect for savoring slowly—though the flights are always expensive. This time we chose to set off in May , partly to avoid the crowds, and partly because Hokkaido hasn't yet entered its peak tourist season at this time, so flights and accommodation are relatively much cheaper (though the Lake Toya hot spring inn still wasn't cheap...). With the comfortable, pleasant climate—neither cold nor hot—we arranged an independent trip centered on Hakodate, Lake Toya, Otaru, and Sapporo , hoping to take in the scenery and flavors of Hokkaido's early summer at a more leisurely pace.